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Checklist for buying a used car

Checklist for buying a used car

Inspection checklist
Make sure that you inspect the vehicle in bright light and when dry

Check the body of the car for any accident damage or rust and make sure you check inside the boot, the floor wells, doors and lower sills for red or other dark stains, dimpled or bubbled paint.

Use a soft fridge magnet to check panels for plastic body filler.
Note: a vinyl roof may conceal rust or other damage.

Hail damage can be found mainly on horizontal panel surfaces (eg bonnet, roof, boot lid). If hail damage is evident, check with your insurance company – they may not insure the car until it’s fixed.

Any loose panels may indicate accident damage or that the car has been regularly driven over rough roads.

Catches on doors and boot lid/tailgate should close firmly. Rubber seals can perish over time.

Be on the lookout for colour variation, overspraying, dents or ripples in the paint.

Check for any wear and tear in the upholstery, trim and carpets.

Under the bonnet
Engine number and VIN (vehicle identification number)/body number must match the numbers on the Certificate of Registration. Check for signs of interference – scratches, grind marks, drill holes etc, as they could indicate illegal interference with the numbers.
Check these are as advertised by inspecting the compliance and/or build plate (compliance plates are fitted to most cars made for Australia since 1970; usually attached to a panel in the engine bay).

Any build-up of dirt or oil in the engine bay may indicate mechanical problems or poor maintenance.

Dirty/thick engine oil and a build-up of sludge in the engine may indicate a lack of maintenance. Grey or milky coloured oil may signify the presence of water, which can indicate serious engine problems.
When the engine is at idle, listen for irregular running, or any knocking/rattling noises.

Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is idling and any oil fumes present may signify worn piston rings or cylinder.

The Radiant coolant should be clean and brightly coloured. Any oil in the coolant may indicate a cracked cylinder-head or a leaking gasket. Check for corrosion or damage on the radiator cooler fins and core tubes.

Check for acid corrosion battery and mounting platform/bracket.

Underneath the Car
Check the tyres (including the spare) for any uneven wear may indicate worn or misaligned steering or suspension.

Check the engine, transmission, axles, brakes, power steering and shock absorbers for any oil leaks.

Any fumes or excessive noise from the exhaust system indicate holes or rust in the pipes or mufflers.

Inside the Car
Check that the seat belts for any fraying or damage, and that the belts, buckles, adjusters and child restraint anchorage points are all in good condition.

Check the operation of all lights, both inside and outside the car. If the vehicle is fitted with ABS and/or SRS (air bag), check that the dashboard warning light/s illuminates for a short time when the ignition is turned on.

Check airconditioning, ventilation fan, electric windows, sound system, etc. Inoperative items can be expensive to repair or replace.

Jack and tool-kit
Check that the jack and tool-kit are in place and in serviceable condition.

IMPORTANT: Before taking the car for a test-drive, check with the seller about your legal liability if an accident should occur.

Excessive ‘free travel’ or wandering on straight roads can indicate worn suspension or misaligned steering.

The brakes on the vehicle should stop smoothly and in a straight line. The pedal should not sink to the floor or feel spongy and the steering wheel should not vibrate.

Blue smoke from the exhaust indicates oil is being burnt. The engine should run smoothly (accelerating, decelerating and cruising) and the water temperature gauge should stay in the ‘safe’ range. Rattling or knocking sounds could mean incorrect tuning or excessive wear.

The gear changes (manual or automatic) in the from the transmission should be smooth, without any rattles or knocking noises. On front-wheel drive vehicles, these noises could indicate worn constant-velocity joints.

Listen for any rattles from the suspension and bodywork when you drive over bumps.

Before you drive off:

  • Make sure you get all the keys for the car (ignition keys with transponders are expensive to duplicate).
  • Get the service book, owner’s manual and log book.
  • If there’s an alarm, find out how to de-activate it.
  • Is there a hidden ignition switch?

2 Responses to “Checklist for buying a used car”

  1. budinsky 1 October 2009 at 2:48 pm #

    My second car I bought was from a car yard and they did the road worthy for me. It sounded like they were doing me a favour but later I realised that things didn’t work like air con, cruise control, interior lights, valve seals, engine bearing and more.

    The next car I bought was also from a car yard and guess what they wanted to do? The roadworthy. I took the car to a mechanic and he gave me the list of problems the car had like warped brake discs etc. I told the car yard they had to fix the problems and knock $2,000 off the price because of the paint chips on the hood.

  2. Minxygirl 2 October 2009 at 5:11 am #

    Yeah car yards will try and do a swifty on you, if your not careful. I will always get RACQ/RACV to check any second hand cars we buy from now on. They go through every car very thoroughly.


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